Comme des Garçons recently showcased their Homme Plus Men’s Fall/Winter 2021 collection right inside of their offices located in Tokyo. Designer Rei Kawakubo drew her inspiration from looking into the darkness to create her latest collection for Homme Plus by CDG. It is a concept that many of us can relate to and the tones of the pieces resonate with classic menswear as we know it. Black, gray, navy, white with pops of green, yellow for color. Kawakubo also referenced a darkroom when developing photographs and how images of beautiful life moments are created in mysterious places of darkness — tying it back to the Fall 2021 collection.
The presentation opened with casually tailored white suits and overall loose fitted pants paired with double-breasted blazers. Timeless menswear elements were present throughout the collection, but Kawakubo incorporated tweeds, jacquard, houndstooth, and flocking details to add dimension to one-dimensional suits to make them stand out without being overly loud. It would not be a proper CDG collection without mixing two silhouettes to create contrast and balance throughout.
While the pieces were all very wearable and practical as full sets or separates, it is easy to recognize the Comme des Garçons DNA at a glance. Oversized jackets, blazers, pleated pants with no shortage of flowers, plaid, and all-over print patterns. All footwear included low-heel shoes and high-top sneakers from the CDG collaboration with Nike. All headpieces were the work of African American sculptor, Willie Cole. The message was powerful to debut prior to Black History Month as each headpiece was made from women’s black high-heel shoes. Inspiration to utilize shoes was based on the concept of common objects suggesting new ideas. The contrast of women’s shoes styled alongside menswear blurred the lines of gender fluidity.
The collection can be worn and enjoyed by any creative, city professional, artists, or anyone looking for an edgier take on menswear aside from the typical “safe” options.
“Creation can arise in a dark place where not only the visual but all six senses come into play,” wrote Rei Kawakubo in pre-show commentary to attendees. “It is in this world, sunk in darkness, that we must search and find something new.” The collection is a relevant lesson to our current unprecedented times to keep ourselves inspired through fashion and creativity.
